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Thread: The Ultimate Quake Live Guide

  1. #11
    Senior Member Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo's Avatar
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    KEYBOARDS

    It is important that a keyboard is very responsive and it should not take a lot of fingertip pressure to use.
    Mechanical keyboards are technically superior, both for typing and playing games especially where you are holding keys for a long time, or using rapid combinations for movement / selections.

    Membrane (sometimes called 'mesh') keyboards have two insulator sheets that sit underneath all the keys, with contacts directly under each key. When the key is pressed it pushes that section of the sheets together to make the electrical connection.
    The key is raised again either by a rubber dome that is pressed out of the top sheet, or by one that is part of the key stem.
    With fewer parts and less metal they are cheap and easy to manufacture, but can wear out very quickly, and tend to have a very spongy and unreliable/inconsistent feel to them do to the rubber wearing out

    Mechanical keyboards have a switch under each key, with a spring, some make a clicking noise as the spring pings out and the middle of it hits the sides of the switch housing.
    Different switches give a different feel, and Cherry MX switches are rated >50 million key presses. They tend to be built like tanks and unless you regularly spill sticky/suggary based liquids into them they will easily last 15-20 years if not in fact your lifetime They are well worth the extra cost once you find the right one for you.

    Key Roll Over
    This is often refereed to as 'Anti Ghosting' which can refer to Key Roll Over, or membrane wiring/usb optimization. All are aimed at preventing the signal from keys being lost because you have pressed more than one key at the same time.
    • NKRO
      n Keys can be pressed at once, mathematical n, as in any number.
    • 6KRO
      6 Key Roll Over
      Any six keys can be pressed at once and still all register + modifiers (ctrl, shift, altl)

    PS/2 vs USB
    • USB uses CPU time to constantly poll the keyboard for information, so a 1000hz usb keyboard interface will respond technically faster than a standard usb keyboard, but high CPU load could interfere.
    • PS/2 acts on interrupts, pressing a key fires an interrupt which calls the CPU to pay attention now and respond as and when it happens, there is no CPU load when keys are not being pressed.
    • The USB keyboard spec/driver limits USB only keyboards to 6KRO, the one known exception currently is the Microsoft SideWinder X4 (mesh) which claims 26 keys at once via USB.
    • NKRO keyoboards are all PS/2, and will be reduced to 6KRO at best if plugged in with a USB adapter.
    I tried a Lycosa for a year for it's quietness and back-lighting. Finally I've decided it wasn't a matter of getting used to the pressure change and low profile keys, I just had to admit it was more effort and cause more cramping issues because of the positional and pressure strain. I had an old Cherry G80-3000 but wanted NKRO and a wrist wrest so bought a Steelseries 7G and I'm very happy with it so far. With a lot more money I would have bought a Deck Legend (amazing wear-free all plastic no paint keys) maybe even with cherry clear switches except sadly they are USB, and the 7G's wrist rest is still superior.


    Now I *highly* recommend mechanical and NOT low profile simply for the player health benefits.

    The high profile keys are easier to distinguish/find, and press for your fingers.
    With the higher keys your fingers can naturally gently rest on them without having to be in a claw like position to avoid hitting the surrounding keys, when applying pressure in a claw position you are more prone to cramping.
    Less pressure + more choice on finger position = less camp / rsi / better finger / hand health.

    The mechanical action, responsiveness and recoil of switches is considerably less strain on your fingers than you will find on mesh keyboards, most mechanical keyboard switches are manufactured by Cherry with their MX range :
    • Cherry Blue
      Loud! very clicky, but lovely for touch typing.
      Tactile - slight upward pressure at actuation enhances feedback feel
      Eg.
      • Razer black widow - 6KRO, usb only
    • Cherry Black
      Linear (equates to a softer feel than the 'tactile' switches)
      Quietest
      Eg.
      • Steelseries 7G, PS2 (or usb adapter) NKRO, amazing wrist rest excellent for health.
      • Optional on Deck Legend - 6KRO, USB only
    • Cherry Brown
      Tactile
      Slightly louder than black, much quieter than blue. probably better for a lot of typing than blacks but excellent for gaming too
      Eg.
      • Filco Majestouch
    • Cherry Red
      Linear
      Very similar to Blacks, a weaker spring gives needs even less exertion force to press
    • Cherry Clear
      Tactile
      different actuation point
      Eg.
      • Optional on Deck Legend - 6KRO, USB only

    For more information on the feel of switch types to aid your selection please see :



    This all adds up to considerably less finger strain and cramps over long typing/gaming sessions.

    These keyboards are more expensive than even a lot of souped up/light up/ reconfigurable mesh keyboards, but they truly really are worth it for your physical health alone, even above their gaming superiority and they can literally last a life time if cared for.
    HEALTH/RSI
    If you play for hours, or play regularly at all you must warm up your hands beforehand, many people completely overlook this as they never have to think about it generally in life, but before any repetitive finger/wrist action like martial arts, juggling, card tricks, pen spinning it's really important to get blood pumping through your cartilage to minimize build up of injury through repetitive action.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUyMNyrOHJQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUyMNyrOHJQ
    (thanks unicorn)

    My other hobby is Goju Ryu Karate, and many of the exercises on this page are used during warm-ups:
    Warmup exercises from handhealthresources

    • At the very least shake your hands from the wrist a bit, circle your arms from the elbows a few times, pump your hands (fully open - fist, repeat) a few times, and finally place your fingers/palms together and push your fingers back and forth a few times.
      Warming up is in part literally that, getting warmer from your actions rather than external sources, it pumps your blood round your system, through your cartilage protecting your joints and making your muscle more pliable.
    • Don't avoid a few warmup exercises because 'I've been playing ages and feel fine', they're intended to make sure that you never suddenly find you really don't feel fine and have to go through months of work to MAYBE recover.
    • If possible avoid 'claw grip' of your mouse / consider slightly larger mice.
    • Consider even lower sensitivity thus you play by mostly arm instead of wrist, this is how by far the majority of pro duellers play, as it is more accurate. This also promotes the more relaxed 'palm grip' more.
    • If you take up low sens/arm play, or already play that way - warm up your arms, especially when start you WILL get arm strains if playing for long periods, and they'll be worse if cold.
    • Watch how long you play for, and play for less next time if any problems happen.
    • If you don't do this you can end up with tennis elbow / carpal tunnel/ RSI etc. Such tiny movements even without pulling weight are still very risky over time
    • Do read the KEYBOARDS section above to avoid RSI with your keyboard hand.

    İYakumo unr 2003-2013


    Last edited by Yakumo; 05-22-2014 at 09:38 AM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo's Avatar
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    MICE
    Around the time Quake2 was still active Microsoft literally changed the game with the release of the Microsoft Intelimouse Explorer v3 this was followed with the MS Intelimouse Optical 1.1 and the MS Wheel Mouse Optical (WMO) 1.1 mice. These were the first optical mice that didn't suffer from any sever tracking defects, skipping, sticking, or simply going completely crazy when you moved too fast and looping around the screen at random, even going backwards. They were the first mice that could truly replace any ball mouse, and are still viewed by many as simply unparalleled. Optical mice are very smooth to use, can be very very accurate. They are better than any ball mouse as there is no ball to stick or clean and less mechanical parts to break.

    These MS mice use the MLT04 optical sensor and run at 6000 samples per second, and 400dpi. These mice are still used by a lot of the world top players as they often prefer what is now considered low dpi. They can be found very cheaply now (around 6 GBP boxless).

    With mice as with any other item, if you have been told a version number, if you can't check the version number - don't buy you are getting an untested release. The MS explorer v4 for example has the same sensor, but it has been completely shunned by the gaming community for other reasons.

    I swapped to a 1800dpi Razer Deathadder (DA) in 2009, they are about same size and weight as the inteli 1.1, they are superb now all the bugs have been fixed using the latest NDC firmware update (~30 GBP). Now upgraded to the 'Deathadder Black Edition' at 3500dpi, with a more comfortable grip and casing, a tiny bit more weight, the Deathadder is still one of the most popular and reliable mice


    When looking at mice pro's are interested in :
    • Sensor Type (Laser / Optical)
      Laser Mice are usually much more expensive
      Laser mice tend to be heavier, and more sensitive to dust tracking errors
    • Sensor Model
      This lets you research any known errors/problems online
    • Positive Acceleration
      This may be something you can get used to, but most like zero, and then to adjust accel themselves if they wish
    • Negative Acceleration
      This tends to be a game breaker, if a mouse has Neg Accel it is slowing down the faster you move so flick shots or any panic reactions are severely hampered.
    • Tracking errors
      If the mouse starts to lose tracking in certain conditions, or certain surfaces, at certain speeds it can become unusable, and is certainly unreliable. For some game types or players that only physically move within the tolerance it may be acceptable. Few like to buy new mouse mats to avoid tracking problems.
    • LOD - Lift Off Distance
      How far the mouse can be lifted before the sensor stops reporting data
      Lower LOD is preferred so when repositioning the mouse on the mat the cursor doesn't move at all, otherwise your repositioning is negated, raising higher is more effort and more time wasting.
    • DC/NDC / Line Prediction
      Drift Contol / No Drift Control
      Firmware software 'enhancements' to predict/straighten lines, some low sensitivity players like this, but as a mainly high sensitivity player I found this to feel quite horrible, and removing it made the Deathadder feel like a significant input lag had been removed, suddenly it was as responsive as the IMO I used previously.

    Recommendations:
    • Razer Deathadder
      Optical
      Right handed except for specified model
      5 buttons (L,R, Wheel, 2 thumb buttons)
      • Deathadder Black Edition (my personal pick)
        Avago ADNS-S3888 (? assumed. unsure at this time)
        Rubberised side grips added
        More comfortable shell
        Braided Cord Added
        Lift off issues fixed
        No Drift Control, one firmware
        ~£50 - 60
      • Deathadder 3.5G / Refresh / Left Handed
        Avago ADNS-S3888
        3500dpi max, left handed version available, sometimes called the 'refresh'.
        Some report lift off issues, may be fixed in later firmware
        No drift control, one firmware.
      • Deathadder (original)
        Avago ADNS-3668
        1800dpi max
        NDC or DC firmware available (NDC recommended - removes input lag feel)
        LOD issues with some surfaces reported, some raise mouse with extra teflon feet.
        ~£30
    • Razer Abysus
      Avago ADNS-S3888
      Ambidextrous
      3 buttons (L,R, Wheel)
      Much like the Deathadder but slightly different shape
      ~£30
    • Logitec g9x
      Laser
      Avago ADNS-9500
      One of the most popular Laser Mice
      Configurable grips, weight
      Some claimed acceleration, often disputed, probably surface dependent.
      Quite small compared to most other pro mice
      ~£60 - 70 gbp
    • Steelseries Xai
      Laser
      Avago ADNS-9500
      Very similar in size/shape compared to WMO/IMO
      Laser sensor, may complaints of sudden unexpected lookign at floor/ceiling in FPS (dust/hair causing tracking t issues)
      Complaints of buttons breaking
      Available as low as ~£30 for white edition when bundled with RUSE, ~£60 otherwise
    • Microsoft Wheel/InteliMice (specific versions listed)
      400dpi
      Can be found as cheaply as £5, or less bought in bulk
      • Wheel Mouse Optical 1.1a (WMO)
        Optical
        MLT04
        Ambidextrous
        Small and light
        3 buttons (L,R, Wheel)
      • Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical 1.1a (IMO)
        Optical
        MLT04
        Ambidextrous
        5 Buttons (5 functions, 7 physical - L, R, Wheel, 2 thumb buttons mirrored either side)
        Very similar to the WMO but slightly larger and with side buttons
      • Microsoft IntelliMouse Explorer v3 (IE 3)
        Optical
        MLT04
        Right handed
        5 buttons (L,R, Wheel, 2 thumb)
        The first, and largest of the 6000s/s MS mice
    Also Check out ESRealitys mouse comparison page though sadly out of date it is still a useful source.

    Skylit Sensor List

    İYakumo unr 2003-2013


    Last edited by Yakumo; 05-22-2014 at 09:38 AM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo has a spectacular aura about Yakumo's Avatar
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    Last edited by Xaero; 05-20-2014 at 04:50 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Marklar is on a distinguished road Marklar's Avatar
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    I was looking forward to see this again, thanks Yakumo!

    Quote Originally Posted by idsoftware View Post
    I hope you managed to save a copy of the version on the old forum, if you can't here's googles cached copy of it.
    http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=uk
    Cool combo breaker bro.
    Btw, you shouldn't get used to that name. It's copyrighted, so it's only a matter of time before you lose it.
    Last edited by Marklar; 08-09-2010 at 07:35 AM.

  5. #15
    *puho
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    I was just thinking, about keyboards, Logitech UltraX Premium is pretty good too. Flat buttons, cheap and have never glitched in quake.

  6. #16
    Senior Member filo is on a distinguished road filo's Avatar
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    ... nice, you got it all back up, good work!

  7. #17
    Senior Member Raz0rblade is on a distinguished road Raz0rblade's Avatar
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    Good to see one of the old "good" threads again. What about the "raz3r´s map" thread? Can u resurreckt that one too? (u are admin...)

  8. #18
    *Asamawa
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    Hey filo how do you have a avatar? In the CP it won't allow you to get a avatar.

  9. #19
    Junior Member Pheon1x is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asamawa View Post
    Hey filo how do you have a avatar? In the CP it won't allow you to get a avatar.
    he's a mod he can use them.
    Frag the weak, hurdle the dead.
    Shawn 'Pheon1x' Morrow

  10. #20
    Member rauvz is on a distinguished road
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    I've been thinking of picking up a Steel Series SX how has your been holding up?
    is there any wear on it?
    and how much does it wear the mouse feet?
    . and what model cherry keyboard do you have and are all their mechanical keyboards good?

    and also i believe the cheese mouse fix dependent on refresh rate not resolution correct me if I'm wrong


    #.reg The 1-to-1, perfect line fixes, use whichever one is the refresh rate you game at.
    that's from the readme that came with the cheese zip file
    Last edited by rauvz; 08-09-2010 at 06:29 PM.

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