Originally Posted by Cat
I bought two VG278HE monitors one week ago, what is those "USB IR emitter" he is talking about? Can't find any of those things among the things that came with the monitors.
So you are not using this tweak or what it is anymore?
Sry for bad english, hope you understand what im talking about.
You might have to buy those separately. They're for use with 3D glasses. I didn't do that. I installed the VG278H EDID file and used the registry edit to enable Lightboost. It should be explained in the same page.
Good news. The Blur Busters Blog fixed the stability problem. LightBoost works perfectly stable now, no freezing!
Improved LightBoost HOWTO on QuakeLive
original post (Transsive)
Then yesterday I, for some reason, disabled the 3d and noticed there was no ghosting to be spotted at all in titan quest. It's like playing on my old CRT.original post (Inu)
I can confirm this works on BENQ XL2420TX
EDIT: And OMG i can play scout so much better now in TF2, this is borderline cheating.original post (TerrorHead)
Thanks for this, it really works! Just tried it on my VG278H. Its like a CRT now!original post (Vega)
Oh my, I just got Skyrim AFK camera spinning (which I used to test LCD's versus the [Sony CRT] FW900) to run without stutters and VSYNC locked to 120. This Benq with Lightboost is just as crystal clear if not clearer than the FW900 motion. I am in awe. More testing tomorrow. Any of my doubts about this Lightboost technology have been vaporized! I've been playing around with this fluid motion on this monitor for like 6-hours straight, that is how impressive it is.OCN post (Baxter299)
way to go vega enjoyed your review and pics ..thanks for taking the time .got my VG248QE last friday .replacing my fw900 witch is finally taking a rest in my closet .See this QuakeLive thread about LightBoost being as good as CRTOCN post (Romir)
Thanks for the timely review Vega.
I went ahead and opened mine and WOW, it really does feel like my FW900. I haven't tried a game yet but it's down right eerie seeing 2d text move without going blurry.
Last edited by MaRkYBoX; 03-13-2013 at 04:42 PM.
What's the point though if you have to spend all that time and money just to get something you could get practically for free with a CRT monitor? (I got my current CRT monitor for free from someone wanting to get rid of it).
Aways ensure you are maintaining a high FPS rate in QL. Otherwise you can be at a big disadvantage. To find out your current fps rate, use the command: "set cg_drawfps "1"".
CRT's are good. But sometimes you want widescreen. And some people's FW900's are wearing out; getting dim. It's easier to replace with a LightBoost monitor. Sometimes you don't have a car to drive to the CRT recyclers on the other side of the city, and you don't know anybody who has a CRT, and the eBay purchases are expensive. And you don't have room for a CRT. LightBoost monitors was recently on sale for only $260 at Amazon, cheaper than a FW900 from eBay including shipping. ($286 now for VG248QE)
was talking to a buddy of mine today, and he was insistent that a plasma tv would make for a good gaming display. Granted, it may be stuck in a particular resolution, but he was saying that the refresh rate wouldn't be an issue. Anyone know if there's anything to this idea?
Usually, plasma displays make better gaming displays than LED HDTV's, but there's also a very good post here:
When sitting very close to a HDTV like a computer monitor:
Many TV's make quite poor monitors, but there's many ways to make them quite decent monitors (if you don't sit too close):
1. 4:4:4 Capability. Choose a good quality 1080p LCD TV with 4:4:4 capability; see hardforum thread
2. Disable Overscan. Adjust a TV to perfect 1:1 pixel mapping at 1920x1080. Disable "overscan". If your TV does not have that, different "zoom" or "aspect ratio" settings, until text becomes perfectly sharp and the whole Start Menu Bar shows up. Some televisions make this difficult to adjust.
3. ClearType Tuner. If you have a B-G-R pixel array (e.g. Sony KDL46EX703). Use ClearType Tuner (Use Internet Explorer for that page) to swap the ClearType renderer to switch from R-G-B subpixels to B-G-R subpixels. Use a magnifying glass at leftmost edge of a bright white screen; if you see only red subpixels, you got R-G-B. If you only see blue subpixels, you've got B-G-R which interferes with Microsoft ClearType unless you tune it.
4. Game Mode. Reduce lag by enabling Game Mode (unless you you need to temporarily use a special motion mode for video stuff, etc)
5. Calibrate! Finally, calibrate your TV for proper computer monitor color and brightness. Most TV's will scorch your eyes if you sit close to them. Lower the backlight brightness (Sometimes called "Backlight Brightness", "Luminousity", in OSD etc.) Use www.lagom.nl/lcd-test. You could also use a Spyder sensor to help you adjust the picture perfectly. Alternatively, if you have Windows 8, it includes the "Windows 8 Display Calibration" utility.
If you follow all the above properly, your TV will become a decent computer monitor if you sit a bit farther back from it. As a result, you get a big screen computer monitor superior to a lot of 1080p monitors (unless you wanted zero motion blur like a LightBoost monitor, such as Sony HX950, which has a LightBoost-like mode that eliminate motion blur). For a 46" HDTV, sit twice as far back as you would a 23" monitor; proportional viewing distance. Or a bit further back. This becomes much easier on your eyes; assuming proper HDTV calibration. This is still fairly close to the TV, so choose a TV with a stable picture. Plasmas can be good too, but if you're sitting close, you may see the noisy look in dark colors especially when you dim the plasma to proper computer monitor levels, so certain plasmas can sometimes be a bit harsher to sit really close to (e.g. 4 feet away for same proportional field of view as sitting 2 feet from computer monitor).
NOTE: If you want native 120 Hz from your computer, get an Active 3D HDTV even though you will use only 2D; those Active 3D TVs are more successful with 120 Hz native from computer, using the HDTV Refresh Rate Overclocking Guide. But for the most part, that is an advanced trick that is not always guaranteed to work (and sometimes only at 1280x720). No 120Hz guarantees!
thanks - looks like a lot of attention around the input lag issue. But any idea about the refresh rate? Would a plasma display be able to render true 120 fps and display each and every frame?
So, I'm about to pick up a Sony GDM-FW900 (SGI rebrand I think), and an IBM P275 , which I think is a rebrand of the Sony CPD-G520, but not sure. The current hp p1130 (which I think is also a rebrand of the g520) that I have is probably gonna die soon - it needs to be turned on and off 4-5 times in order to accumulate enough current to remain stable (it turns off after a few seconds when I turn it on the first few times).
Hoping they're in good condition - heartbreakingly enough, missed an opportunity to pick up two A+ sony GDM-F520s - dude had sold them the day before I contacted him, though I've asked him to ask the buyer if they'd be willing to part with one for a mark up.
i have a 120hz acer monitor and an 85hz CRT, i'd use the CRT if it went up higher because my LCD has slight input lag and its blurry
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